Phil and Paul packed up their camp and hit the trail towards Lukla, where they will get on a plane for a short flight back to Kathmandu. Once in Kathmandu, they will rest and finalize their flight arrangements for their long journey home.
Paul safely descended down to Camp 2. He is exhausted. This is no surprise, since he climbed to Camp 4 with Phil, then down to Camp 2 for two days, back to Camp 4 (where he spent 48 hours waiting for a nasty storm to pass) before climbing to the summit. He plans on meeting up with Phil at Base Camp tomorrow and plan their trek down to Lukla.
Phil successfully completed his last adventure through the Khumbu Icefall and is resting at BaseCamp. Paul called home from the summit of Everest at 9:09 PM (EST).
Paul reports that the winds are still blowing on Everest. Phil carefully descended to Camp 2. Both climbers will remain there until the winds subside before heading down to Base Camp.
Today Paul descended to Camp 2 while Phil decided to remain at Camp 3. Paul reports that the winds on mountain are “howling” and that he had to sit down several times during his descent to avoid “being blown off of the mountain”. Paul will remain at Camp 2 to wait for Phil’s arrival, to rest and decide on whether or not to head back up the mountain.
May 10 (continued)
At 9 PM EST, both climbers were at Camp 4. Both are absolutely exhausted. Paul reports that the conditions under which they climbed to the South Col were the worst that he ever experienced during his multiple ascents of Everest. Phil made a decision not to continue up the mountain. Paul stated, “while Phil did not fulfill his dream of climbing to the summit of Everest, he successfully made it to the South Col. This is a huge accomplishment! Phil should be proud!” Paul added that Phil did really well without supplemental oxygen.
As of 7 AM (US EST), Paul arrived at Camp 4 and Phil was still on his way. Without going into details, Paul reported that is was “an extremely difficult climb”. The goal is to reach the summit by 8 PM (US EST) tonight.
The climbers remained at Camp 3 for another day. High winds on the mountain delayed the sherpas’ efforts to secure rope from Camp 4 to the Balcony (27,500 ft). Now that the lines are set, Phil and Paul plan on starting their climb to Camp 4 at approximately 5:30 AM tomorrow.
Phil and Paul are at Camp 3 (23,050 ft) today. Paul reports that ascending the Lhotse Face was challenging due to the extreme heat. Phil “did really well” according to Paul. Getting up the Lhotse Face seemed easier than getting through the Western Cwm for Phil. Both were very dehydrated and tired when they arrived at Camp 3. They recharged with albacore tuna and potato salad for lunch and chicken and potato salad for dinner. Despite the fatigue that they feel from their climb up the Lhotse Face, both remain healthy and strong. In the morning, they plan on heading on to Camp 4 in the South Col. Camp 4 is not a place where the climbers stay very long. It is in the Death Zone, where normal metabolic functions are cannot be sustained for very long. Camp 4 is really considered a stopping spot, a final place to rest and mentally prepare the climbers for the final push to the summit. If all goes according to plan, Phil and Paul should reach the summit on May 10.
Today Phil and Paul are at Camp 2 today. Getting there took a toll on Phil, due to the extremely hot conditions. Unlike the first time that they climbed through the Western Cwm, when they had a nice breeze, it was “hotter than hell” this time around according to the climbers. The late morning and afternoon sun gets trapped in the flat basin that is surrounded by mountains leading to intolerably hot conditions in the absence of wind. The pair will spend two nights at Camp 2, recovering from the climb and acclimatizing to the higher elevations and then on to Camp 3. They continue to monitor the weather forecasts as they plan for their summit attempt scheduled for later this week.
May 5
The climbers left Base Camp and began their ascent through the Khumbu Icefall in the morning after a snowstorm dropped about 1 foot of snow on the mountain. Phil and Paul are resting at Camp 1 while strategizing their next moves up the mountain. Paul spent a good portion of the day working out the logistics with the other teams, determining who will be securing the final stretch of rope from Camp 4 to the summit. Both are healthy, feeling strong and eager to get further up the mountain. It appears that the weather will cooperate, allowing them to ascend to Camp 2 tomorrow.
Snow has delayed Phil’s and Paul’s plans to move up the mountain on May 3. Their supplies have made it to Camp 4 and the sherpas have returned to Camp 2 to rest and wait out the snowstorm. The climbers are prepared to leave Base Camp on May 5. They will stop at Camp 1 for one night before heading further up the mountain.
The weather is finally starting to cooperate with the Everest climbers. The long-range forecasts show the wind patterns turning away from the mountain. Therefore, Phil and Paul are planning to head up the mountain once more. Their team of sherpas has packed their summit gear and necessary supplies for Camps 3 and 4 and is ready to leave Base Camp on May 1. Right now the plan for Phil and Paul is to leave Base Camp on May 3, spend one night at Camp 1, then ascend to Camp 2 and remain there until their sherpas complete securing the ropes up to Camp 4. They will most likely stay at Camp 2 for 2-3 nights, continuing to acclimatize their bodies, and following weather reports to effectively plan their summit attempt. They will then ascend up the Lhotse face to Camp 3 for one night and on to Camp 4 and the summit. At this time they project reaching the summit within 2 weeks. Of course, this may all change very quickly. Stay tuned.
After receiving weather reports that forecasted snow and windy conditions, Phil and Paul decided to leave Camp 2 earlier than planned and retreated to the safety of Base Camp. This proved to be a smart decision because a sherpa from one of the other expeditions died after getting caught in an avalanche on the Lhoste Face one day after they returned to Base Camp. At this time the lines are set approximately one-half of the distance between Camps 3 and 4 and the supplies are at Camp 2 and ready to be moved to Camp 3. Paul reports that “the winds are howling” and that the forecasts show that the conditions will remain this way for at least the next three days. As a result, Phil and Paul will remain at Base Camp, “playing the waiting game”, looking for a window of opportunity to safely head back up the mountain to complete their acclimatization and prepare for their summit bid. For now they are staying put.
Phil and Paul arrived at Camp 1 on April 19 and at Camp 2 on April 20. To get to Camp 2 climbers must climb through the Western Cwm. Although it is a relatively flat glacial valley, this section of Everest is challenging because it gets extremely hot during the day, due to the surrounding mountains protect it from wind. Because of this, Phil and Paul started their climb to Camp 2 early in the morning to avoid the hot late morning/early afternoon. Paul reported that it wasn't so bad, due to a slight breeze that kept the temperatures tolerable. From here, Phil was able to get his first view of the spectacular upper slopes and summit of Everest, which are not visible from Base Camp. . Paul reached Camp 2 in about 2.5 hours and Phil joined him about 1.5 hours later. For the past two days they have been continuing the acclimatization process by slowly ascending the Lhoste Lace (a vertical ascent of approximately 3,000 ft between Camps 2 & 3) and returning to their tents at Camp 2. Today they climbed approximately one-half of the distance to Camp 3, reaching 21,500 ft. before returning to Camp 2. They are accompanied by two of the members of their sherpa support team. Paul reports that the rest of the sherpa team is busy carrying supplies from Base Camp to Camp 2, which will be transported to Camps 3 & 4 next week. Both are feeling strong after spending their second day at Camp 2. They will remain there for two more days and then descend back to Base Camp, where they will rest 2-3 days. .
April 17
Today is another rest day at Base Camp for Phil and Paul. This was unplanned. Paul is still trying to get over a cold and the sherpas asked for an extra day to completely prepare Camp 2 for their arrival. Paul stated that the lines to Camp 3 are set so the sherpas will begin bringing supplies there shortly. Hopefully the two climbers will begin their adventure through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 tomorrow.
April 15
Phil and Paul safely returned to Base Camp before noon today after spending one night at Camp 1. Paul reports, “ The Icefall is extremely dangerous. It's the worst that I have ever seen. There are so many ladders to cross due to the presence of such wide crevasses all over the place.” Paul reached Base Camp in about 3 hours. Phil got held back behind other teams going slowly through the Icefall, reaching Base Camp about 1 hour after Paul did. The two climbers maintained constant communications via radio. Some of their climb through the Icefall was captured on video, so we can all view and share their experience when they return. They are tired but feeling good. They took showers and enjoyed chicken cutlets, which were described as “superb” for lunch,” I guess that the cook got it right this time. Phil, Paul and the sherpas will rest today. Tomorrow, some of the sherpas will start their ascent to Camp 2, bringing food and climbing gear with them. While the sherpas head up to prepare Camp 2 for Phil and Paul's arrival there later this week, Phil and Paul trek over and climb Pimori, a mountain that lies just eight kilometers west of Everest. It’s elevation is 23,494 feet (7,161 meters). Johan Nilsson, a member of a Swedish Expedition team and several members of a Base Camp research team from Brown University will accompany the two climbers. They will climb up to about 20,000 feet, in an effort to properly acclimatize their bodies in preparation for their ascent to Camp 2 later this week.
Phil sends a message - ”To all the girls and boys in the Mystic P.O. - If you think that Route 3 is hard, you should try climbing through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1!!”.
Phil and Paul successfully climbed through the entire Khumbu Icefall and arrived at Camp 1 in about 6 hours today. Both are tired but doing great. Paul stated that it was a very difficult climb, with more crevasses and steps than he has ever experienced during the previous expeditions in 2000, 2001 and 2003. It took the pair about 2 hours longer than expected to get to Camp 1, due to the extensive amount of ladders that they had to cross and climb. The winds finally diminished, which helped the climbers’ ascent through the Icefall. They enjoyed tuna for lunch when they arrived and were looking forward to a nice chicken, rice and salad dinner. However, the cook somehow ruined the chicken so they had to settle for a re-hydrated bagged dinner instead. They will descend through the Icefall, back to Base Camp tomorrow after spending one night at Camp 1, while at team of sherpas continues to prepare Camp 2 (21,500 ft) for them. Phil and Paul plan on resting at Base Camp for a couple of days, enjoying some of the 50 lbs of chicken that they had delivered on Thursday as well as other comforts of home, such as Dunkin Donuts coffee and then resume the acclimatization process by beginning their long journey to Camp 2, making a stop at Camp
April 12
The Everest Treks 2007 Everest Expedition is well underway. Philip A. Plouffe of Mystic CT, and Paul F. Giorgio of Millbury, MA arrived in Lukla on March 31, where they began their trek up to Base Camp.
Philip A. Plouffe, 50 was born and has lived in Mystic, CT all his life with the exception of time spent in Colorado when serving in the Army in the mid 70's. He has 2 daughters, Bridget, 19 in New Haven, and Caitlin, 15, living in Waterford. He is also very close to fiancé, Deborah Dutton’s children, Melissa 20, of Canaan, CT, and Andrew, 22 of Stonington, CT. He is a letter carrier for the U.S. Postal Service in Mystic, CT, which he has done for 23 years. His love of the outdoors helps him endure "delivering mail through rain, snow and sleet”. He has experienced "car-camping" with his family while growing up, has taken his girls camping and has hiked throughout New England, including many winter accents of Mount Washington in New Hampshire. In 1998 he successfully reached the summit of South America's Highest peak, Mt. Aconcagua (22,834'), and in 2003, he made it through the Khumbu Icefall of Everest, successfully reaching Camp 1 with team leader Paul Giorgio. At this time he returns to Everest - to the top off the world. Phil is very appreciative to all those that contributed to fulfilling his dream through individual contributions as well as local business on his mail route, and a very special thanks to John Williams, owner of Fisherman Restaurant in Noank and Ace Security for all his support and fund raising efforts.
While each climbing season is unique, Mt. Everest and all she has to offer is not new to veteran climber Paul Giorgio. To date, Paul has successfully reached the summit 3 times in as many attempts (2000, 2001 and 2003). Two of those successful ascents were accomplished without the use of supplemental oxygen (he slept with it, but did nor use it to climb). His experiences on Everest go beyond simply reaching the summit. During the 2000 expedition, he and Expedition Leader Andrew Locke were forced to retreat from the South Summit, due to lack of fixed ropes. Rather than abandoning their goal of reaching the summit that year, together they successfully reached the summit nine days later, after resting at Base Camp for just 2 days. Such a feat is quite rare. Paul was the expedition leader in 2001 and 2003, where the goals involved measuring the Hillary Step and the snow depth on the summit to determine the true elevation of Everest on behalf of the Boston Museum of Science and National Geographic Society. This required him to work at the summit for 4 hours without the use of supplemental oxygen. He transmitted the information real-time to the late Bradford Washburn (Boston Museum of Science) from the summit via satellite phone. During the 2003 Expedition Paul was among many climbers at Base Camp the witnessed a fatal helicopter crash. Paul managed to shut off the engine of the severely damaged helicopter and assisted others in the removal of the surviving injured passengers from the wreckage.
In addition to climbing Mt. Everest three times, Paul Giorgio has also successfully reached the summits of four other highest peaks of the seven continents including: Mt. McKinley, Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Aconcogua and Mt. Kilimanjaro. He was the expedition leader for the successful ascents of Mt Elbrus, Aconcogua, and Kilimanjaro.
Paul and Phil’s bodies acclimatized well during their trek through the Khumbu Valley. They stopped in several villages along the way to Base Camp to ensure that their bodies adjusted well to the rising elevations and thin atmosphere. At an elevation of 11,300 feet, Namche was the largest village that they stopped in en route to Base Camp. It actually has lodges, restaurants serving Western food, banks and shops. After spending a night there, they packed up and headed up the steep trail to get to a village called Khumgjung and then stopped in Tengboche (approx. 12, 700 ft) where they received a blessing from a Lama in the Buddhist Monastery, and then continued their trek through a village called Pangboche. Earlier this week they stopped in Gorak Shep, where they continued their acclimatization by climbing a nearby mountain called Kala Patar (approx. 18, 600 ft). Paul stated that “Phil did great!! Paul lagged behind a bit, feeling a bit under the weather due to a cold that he was fighting. After spending one night in Gorak Shep they successfully trekked into Everest Base Camp (17,600 ft) and set up their “homes” for the next 4-6 weeks.
No climbers will go beyond Base Camp until a ritual called pujar, is completed. A pujar is a traditional ceremony of purification and atonement. This ceremony is a request to the gods for permission to climb the mountain and for protection and good weather. The pujar takes place on an altar-like structure. Offerings of bread, rice, barley, among other things are offered on the altar. In addition, the climbers’ equipment must also be purified before setting foot on the mountain. A part of the ceremony involves passing ropes, crampons, ices axes, and other equipment through the smoke of lit juniper sprigs. The lama distributes a blessed string; called sungdi (meaning protection knot) made of thin nylon. The climbers wear this for the duration of the expedition. It is believed that the sungdi will protect the climbers from harmful spirits and situations such as avalanches and crevassses..etc. Phil and Paul held their Pujar ceremony on April 11. Yesterday they made their first of several climbs through the Khumbu Icefall. They planned on climbing through about 3/4 of the way to Camp 1 and then to return to Base Camp. For those who are unfamiliar with the Khumbu Icefall, it is a frozen river that separates Base Camp and Camp 1. It is a maze of crevasses and enormous ice blocks the size of buildings. The crevasses, which appear to be bottomless at times open and close and the ice blocks, weighing tons, constantly shift and tumble without warning. Ladders are used to cross the crevasses and to climb over the enormous ice blocks. Because of the constant movement that occurs in the Icefall the ladders need to be adjusted frequently. Some of the crevasses and ice walls require up to 9 eight-foot ladders (joined with plastic ropes) to get past them. As the Icefall shifts additional ladders get attached to the existing ones. An entire section of the Icefall collapsed towards the end of the expedition season in 2000. Thankfully no on was seriously injured. Because the acclimatization process requires a descent to lower elevations to allow the body to recover after reaching the higher elevations, the climbers go through the Icefall several times during the expedition.
Today, April 12 is a rest day back at Base Camp. In a couple of days, Phil and Paul will once again climb through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 (20, 015 ft), where they will stay overnight and return to Base Camp to rest for 2 days before starting their long journey to Camp 2 (21,500 ft).